i've been having toooons of trouble with the internet here. but finally, a post, one that i wrote last sat. night.
i've yet to write because i have had very little time, and everything has been spinning around me like a whirlwind so its been hard to collect my thoughts.
right now i am sitting on the balcony of my room (the roof of my family's house) and am enjoying the window-rattling music of the party across the street. its saturday morning at about one a.m., and from the shadows in the window, it looks like my neighbors are having a lot of fun dancing, and by their voices, it sounds like they have had a bit too much to drink. :)
but, i have jumped at least eight days ahead. first, i need to introduce quito and everything here. my family is great. i have a sister my same age, who goes to the university near mine. she is lots of fun and wants to take me to do lots of things. i have another sister who lives below us with her husband and their cute two year old son. i booped him for the first time today; i know that some of you will be very proud.
my family has had two students before, and it seems like they are really committed to ensuring that i have a valuable experience here, which i am so thankful for. i have my own little room on top of their house with a bathroom, and two balconies with beautiful views…one with a view of the city, and the other with the view of the very close volcano called pinchincha.
my mom is a great cook. every morning we have fresh homemade juice or smoothies, for lunch there are delicious soups and lots of seafood. the lunches are huge, always delicious, and we rarely even eat much dinner. i had mentioned to my host mom that i like to cook, so she shows me how to prepare everything. i hope that when i leave i will be a wonderful ecuadorian cook!
i have had several days of orientation and have begun three weeks of introductory language and culture classes. they are really interesting and fairly demanding as well. speaking so much spanish is difficult, but already within one week, i can tell that i have learned a lot, which is encouraging.
the other students in the program are really friendly and i'm enjoying getting to know them. on one of the first days of orientation, we went on a tour of quito together. quito has a world-famous historical district, and we roamed the plazas, quito's first university, and saw a lot of beautiful buildings and churches. la compañía de Jesus is a church downtown completely covered in gold. although of course i think that this is a ridiculous waste, the church is absolutely gorgeous and i hope to go to mass their occasionally.
our tour guide, julio, who was pretty much a living textbook of quito history, told us that quito is named after the first indigenous people who settled in this area and the name's meaning has connotations of being "the center of energy" and the "home of the spirit." how beautiful! i can't wait to experience the truth of quito's name more fully.
[random disruption comment: the fiesta across the street is now playing spanish ska. i have never heard such, but i am enjoying it thoroughly. que chévere!]
with the kids in the program i also went on a gondola called the teleferiQo, which climbs 3,000 feet to the top of pinchincha (which put us at a total of almost 13,000 feet). we drank coca tea and hiked around a bit, que linda la vista!
also of note, a couple nights ago i went to an afroecuadorian music festival at the casa de musica near my house. the ecuadorian population is 10% black (30% indigenous, and the majority of the rest mestizo), and the afroecuadorians are the population most discriminated against in the country. so this concert was really empowering for them and i was so happy to see it. there was a large, well-mixed crowd, and there were traditional african-style songs that told afroecuadorian history as well as some really fun marima music.
racism and social class discrimination are really prevalent here. i love my host family, but their frequent anti-black, anti-indigenous, and anti-poor comments bother me a lot. i cringe everytime i hear one. i've yet to say something about it (i think my feelings are probably evident by my face), but i'm pretty sure i won't be able to go the whole four months without sharing my opinion. but, i need to learn patience and understanding. "i´m an ass, you´re an ass," as anthony demello says.
although this discrimination is so present, machismo is not as present as i thought it might be, at least in my house. when the maid is not around and my mom has to cook, my dad helps, for example. they have a very amiable and balanced relationship as far as i can tell.
this weekend, my family is taking me to their vacation home in the mountains outside of quito. there are natural warm springs there, and it should be a lot of fun. although i love this beautiful city, i'll be happy to get away from the pollution, traffic, and crowds for a couple days. i would have never thought that my family would have a vacation home! (and i have to admit, i'm kind of disappointed). but regardless, i am learning a lot about this strata of quiteño society, and i hope to learn more about others inside and out of the classroom as time goes on.
well, this ended up much longer than i intended. mil abrazos for anyone who actually reads this far. this is what happens when i am as a long-winded writer as i am and don't blog for over a week.
bueno, ya me voy. chau, amigos!